The meaning of the place name Carnac goes directly back to the accumulations of stones and places of worship for which the little town on the Morbihan coast is world famous. Menhirs, dolmens and burial mounds are the most impressive sights of Carnac, less known is the fact that Carnac can be proud of one of the most beautiful beaches of Morbihan.
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The Stones Of Carnac
Over a length of more than 4 kilometres, the individual formations Kerlescan, Le Ménec and Kermario stretch out. The builders arranged the menhirs, which are between 50 centimetres and 4 metres high, in a circular or parallel pattern. Some of the granite blocks seem to have been already in place, others were specially brought here and carefully worked.
Researchers have identified the Neolithic period between 4,500 and 2,000 BC as the period of origin. Historians can only speculate about why the menhirs of Carnac were erected at this particular location, near the Quiberon peninsula, and exactly what cultic activities they served. Whether the stones represent a gigantic calendar, as researchers claim, who have established an alignment according to the rises and sets at the solstices? Or does each menhir symbolise a dead soul, as other opinions have it?
Today, the stone fields of Carnac are open to visitors. The formations are fenced off, and there is a charge for visiting. From April to September, the visitor centre offers guided tours, but you can also wander among the menhirs in the tall grass on your own. The place unfolds a particularly impressive atmosphere at sunset.
Tour: Ménec And Tumulus Saint Michel
A tour to the various sights of Carnac covers about 12 kilometres. The grounds of Carnac are almost completely fenced off, and wandering among the stones is only possible on guided tours. Those who are content to look at the stones through the fence on an extended hike can explore the area on their own; from the edge of the path you can get a good impression of the rows of stones.
Not far from the town centre, the good three-hour circular walk begins through predominantly flat terrain. The car park “Parking Maison Mégalithes” is very close by and is a perfect starting point. Right next to the car park, the “Maison de Mégalithes” visitor centre gives a comprehensive overview of all the Carnac sites. Admission to the multimedia information area is free, and the obligatory souvenir shop is not missing. The visitor centre is also the starting point for guided tours and bus tours to the individual sites.
From the roof of the Maison, the view opens up over the “Alignements” of Ménec. This is where the most representative examples of the menhirs of Carnac are to be found: 1,099 menhirs are spread over 11 rows over a good kilometre in length and 100 metres in width. The highest stones of this formation reach 4 metres. The Ménec complex begins in the south-west with a cromlech (a stone circle) consisting of 71 preserved blocks, some of which wind their way between the buildings of the village of Ménec.
After visiting the rows of stones, head east along Rue de Ménec, the stone Croix Audran and the Saint Michel fountain to reach the well-signposted Saint Michel Tumulus. The Saint Michel burial mound – 125 m long, 60 m wide and 10 m high – was built on a natural hill in the 5th millennium BC. The site is considered the largest burial mound in continental Europe. The remains of human bones and grave goods such as axes and beads were found in the inner chambers. The chambers are not accessible, only the chapel on the hill can be seen and visited. On a clear, sunny day, you can enjoy a magnificent view from here; optimal conditions give views as far as Île Groix, Belle-Île-en-Mer and Port-Navalo.
Part 2: Kermario And Kerlescan
From Chapelle Saint Michel, the circular route first continues south to Cloucarnac before heading north after a short distance. The dolmen of Kerluir and a well at the exit of the village are the points of interest on the way to the sites of Kermario. This collection of megaliths is the best known and most visited of the stone rows of Carnac. The largest menhirs are found here, with a total of 982 carved stones in 20 rows about 1,200 metres long and 100 metres wide. The site has been a listed monument since 1889.
From Kermario, head east to the Kerlescan site. 13 rows of stones extend over a length of 350 metres and a width of 140 metres. In the west, the so-called “Cromlech de Kerlescan”, a square stone enclosure of about 70 by 70 metres, is preserved. The size of the stones increases from east to west, so it is advisable to start at the far eastern end when visiting. Also worth mentioning is the Géant du Manio, at 6 metres the tallest upright stone in Carnac. After this last highlight, the trail heads west back to the Kermario sites and from there back to the starting point at the visitor centre.
Carnac Beach
In Morbihan, blessed with many wonderful beaches, the beach of Carnac in the district of Carnac-Plage is one of the most beautiful. Fine white sand, plenty of space for swimming, walking or sunbathing and a magnificent view of the sea. The “Grand Plage” lies in the open wind of the ocean and is therefore well suited for kite flying and surfing. At the best holiday time in high summer, the beach is well frequented, but there is always a place to be found on the 1.5-kilometre-long stretch. There are restaurants, crêperies, playgrounds and toilets around the beach. This is not the only reason why this section is ideal for families with children!
Images: Comité Régional du Tourisme de Bretagne | © Yanick Le Gal, © Emmanuel Berthier, © Donatienne Guillaudeau, © Yannick Derennes, © Ronan Gladu, © Jacqueline Piriou, © Simon Bourcier, © Pierre Torset, © Alexandre Lamoureux, © Nicolas Job, © Xavier Dubois, © Thibault Poriel, © L’œil de Paco, © Bruno Torrubia, © Loic Kersuzan